Kanchipuram - A Divine Tapestry

The unique sheltered Nandi!

The Splendid Kanchi Kamakshi Temple

The legend of Kanchi Kamakshi Amman!

The imposing Varadaraja Perumal Temple!

Heritage structure - Vaikuntha Perumal Temple

The desire to visit the Kanchi

Kamakshi Amman temple and the lure of owning an authentic Kanjivaram sari drew me to Kanchipuram. Kanchipuram is a small town, one and a half hour’s drive away from Chennai. The main attractions here are the temples dedicated to Goddess Parvati (Kamakshi Amman temple- a Shakti Peeth), Lord Shiva (Egambareeswarar temple), Lord Vishnu (Vaikuntha Perumal temple) and the Lord Vishnu (Narasimhan), (Varadharaja Perumal temple).
The ‘golden lizard’ in the last temple eluded us as no one guided us properly.
Legends say that Goddess Kamakshi worshipped a Shivalingam under a mango tree and was rewarded with marriage to her consort Lord Shiva; and also that Adi Sankaracharya enabled the unique, meditative representation of the Goddess here, by placing a divine Chakra before the idol
Though it was Maha Shivaratri, the temples weren’t very crowded. We managed to see three temples in the morning. The temples in Chennai generally close at 12.30 p.m. and re-open at 4.30 p.m. Hence we had to wait till 4.30 p.m. to visit the Vaikuntha Perumal temple. So we visited the sari shops for the traditional, patented, handloom Kanjivaram silk saris.
After nerve-wracking selection (and haggling), as all the saris were equally enticing, I zeroed in on 3 saris. We had made some acquaintances in the Chennai Express, on our way to Chennai, who fortunately turned out to be sari-shop owners in Kanchipuram. Armed with their visiting card, we landed in their shop, much to their delight! Again, I purchased 2 lovely saris. Apart from two for myself, the rest were for my family members. Meanwhile my husband was becoming restless, owing to hunger pangs!
We had lunch at a restaurant that served authentic, three-course, South-Indian meals on banana leaves. We treated the auto-driver to lunch. Alas, I could only eat curd-rice, my staple lunch in my sight-seeing jaunts, thanks to a delicate tummy!
The auto-driver then pocketed his fare and showed us the Vaikuntha Perumal temple, a heritage structure, from afar. More than 2 hours remained, for it to open. We wandered around and bought 3 Tamil DVDs, reasonably priced at Rs. 30/- apiece, from a shop. Then I bought some beautiful metal and acrylic bangles. The wait for the darshan of the Lord was proving to be expensive! Tactfully, my husband suggested that we should start walking towards the temple, as it would be opening shortly.
Again, we had to wait for 2 hours, till the pujari finally made his way there, at 5.30 p.m. I explored the temple’s surroundings and captured some splendid shots of the lion-pillars and carvings on its inner walls. By then, two groups of visitors had come and left, without darshan as the pujari had the key to the sanctum-sanctorum.
My patience paid off! When we paid obeisance to the beautiful idols of Lord Vishnu and Goddess Laxmi, I was moved immeasurably. We started our return journey to Chennai, watching illuminated floats of Lord Nataraja and Goddess Durga, in street processions, en route. We felt truly blessed.
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The copyright of this travelogue and photographs is with Mrs. Priya Ramesh Swaminathan.