Adalaj Step-well - Steeped in History and Tragedy!

     

     We visited this fascinating vav (Step-well) as part of our City Tour in Ahmedabad. After paying a small entry free, we entered its hallowed precincts, with our indefatigable lady guide. She pointed out its interesting facets like intricate carvings, Indo-Islamic architecture, tragic history and its relevance.

     She kept leading us down the solid, grey, sandstone steps, with flat platforms at each level, flanked by beautiful columns and meticulously carved niches, weaving her way through selfie-taking tourists; till we reached the third level from where we aren't allowed down any further! A shaky wooden fence stands there. An eyesore undoubtedly! There is water still visible at the bottom of the well. It is supposedly still potable.

     The guide started narrating the heartrending, tragic tale of the step-well. Rani Roopba had started constructing the step-well to honor her husband Rana Veersingh (who was later defeated and killed by the Muslim ruler, Mohammed Begada in battle). The Muslim ruler then proposed to the Rani who laid down the precondition that she would marry him if he completed construction of the step-well. He tried to complete it hastily and again proposed to her. The Rani refused, saying that it was incomplete!

     The guide pointed out how the last two levels of this step-well are bare, cemented, whitewashed and devoid of any ornamentation in the form of sculptures/carvings!

     This shoddy work carried out by the Muslim ruler anguished the Rani so much that she committed suicide by jumping into the same 'unfinished' vav, her labor of love! Obviously, the Rani had wanted to keep her honor intact!

     We felt really sorry for that Queen and silently prayed that her soul should rest in eternal peace. We also inwardly thanked her for this breathtaking piece of architecture!

     Aged people should avoid venturing down the step-well if they suffer from arthritis, spondylitis, blood pressure or vertigo. Children should be under strict supervision to avoid nasty falls.

     We would have loved to spend some more time there.

The copyright of this travelogue is with Mrs. Priya Ramesh Swaminathan.

This review has also been published on www.tripadvisor.in.