Velankanni – In the Seventh Heaven!

Velankanni Church

       We had resolved to see the legendary Velankanni church, during our recent visit to Chennai. Hence, we visited it after we visited Chidambaram. Velankanni is situated about 130 kms. away from Chidambaram and the journey is akin to our Pune to Mumbai journey by the Asiad bus. 
       As we left behind the magnificent mangroves of Chidambaram, we passed by green fields, coconut groves and devoured the breath-taking scenery which sped past our bus. When we saw the blue ocean on both sides of the highway, with glimpses of fishing boats perched on the golden beaches, we knew that we were nearing our destination, as  Velankanni is on the Nagapattinam beach.  
       Nagapattinam town, on the southern-most tip of India, had been ravaged by the tsunami in 2004, as its epicenter was there. But now, a decade later, everything was peaceful and beautiful. Life was back to normal. Yet, I couldn’t avoid an involuntary shudder at the thought of that tsunami’s nightmare that the town’s residents would undoubtedly have, for the rest of their lives!

        The word stoic, played in my mind’s eye, as I observed the people going about their routine. Most of them, must’ve lost their beloved ones, livestock and property to the marauding waves of the tsunami, but now appeared to be determined to put their gloomy past behind and look forward to a bright future.

      Bright, would be an understatement, when I begin to describe the blinding white, with which all the churches there, have been painted, in the aftermath of that natural calamity which hadn’t spared them either. All the churches have been rebuilt and restored to their former glory.

       Thus, as soon as we got down at the bus-stand, the very first vision of the white, ethereal churches, bathed in the mellow evening sunshine; made us feel as if we had landed in heaven itself! (By bus!) We slowly walked to the main church of the divine Mother Velankanni, the sari-clad Madonna with her infant Jesus Christ in her arms.

'Miracle' tree!

           Legend has it that the virgin Mother Mary appeared in Velankanni first, before a shepherd boy and then later, before a lad selling butter-milk. After satiating her baby’s hunger, with their milk and butter-milk respectively, she requested them to hasten to a rich businessman there and inform him about her sighting. He was to build her church there! Thus this beautiful church has its origin in this wonderful, touching legend.

       It is customary to offer a sari, candles and a cradle at the Velankanni shrine. One may offer either or all of the above-mentioned items here. Generally cradles are offered by those desirous of having children. The cradle may be tied to the branches of a tree growing just outside the church or put inside the box of offerings kept inside the church. Similarly, there are other boxes for saris and other kinds of offerings. It is believed that all the wishes of the devotees are fulfilled by prayers at this shrine.

        The idol of the Mother Velankanni with her infant Jesus in her arms; is a beautiful one that evokes bliss and contentment. Devotees sit down on the floor or kneel down and pray and meditate in front of the altar. There is no formality here. Two bowls of the holy water are attached to the doors on either side, and devotees can dip their hands in them and seek blessings.

       The devotees may fill in a form by tick-marking their desired wishes against those mentioned point-wise in the form. This form must then be folded and put inside the box. This divine wish-list lists all material and spiritual desires such as freedom from debts, gaining wealth, marriage, children, peace of mind for self and family, etc. My husband and I filled these forms and meditated awhile, soaking in the divine and fragrant atmosphere there. We also lit candles at the altar.

       The candles and cradles can be bought at separate counters outside the church.

      We clicked some snaps and started our return journey. It was 6 p.m. Just then, we heard gongs and cymbals accompanying the chorus prayer song. The evening prayer procession had just begun. Though we’d have liked to join it, and also explore the Nagapattinam beach; we couldn’t, as we had a long journey of nearly 6 hours to reach Puducherry.

       We changed buses at Chidambaram, then at a bypass near Puducherry and reached Puducherry bus-stand at 11.15 p.m. We were surprised to see women traveling alone at that late hour, by bus, decked up in gold ornaments! It said a lot about the absolute safety there. Women are respected and there’s no eve-teasing or attempts at robbery.

      We hailed an auto and reached our guest-house, tired but happy. Our mission was accomplished and we had reluctantly returned from heaven to earth!

The copyright of this travelogue and photographs is with Mrs. Priya Ramesh Swaminathan.